La Ferme Saint-Aubin (No. 76; 33-1-43-54-74-54) provides the de rigueur cheese course. Thanks to its own ripening cellar, the shop purveys all manner of aged morsels, including the blue mold-covered Mâconnais (2.90 euros for a plug about the size of a tea candle). Within, these small plugs of goat cheese are firmer, earthier and more assertively tart than their fluffier brethren.
For fans of hard cheese, the thick and wedgelike comté fruité (31.50 euros a kilogram) emerges from the vault after 26 months with a mellow, smooth and nutty flavor. Also worth sampling are the gooey and understated nuggets of le trou du cru, a type of epoisse (2.50 euros for 60 grams, or just over two ounces) and the tangy, hearty Brillat-Savarin (11.50 euros for a door-stopping disk), a triple-cream brie.