French presidents, screen stars and Rothschilds have all lined up on the sawdust-strewn tile floor of Jean-Paul Gardil’s namesake butcher shop (44, rue St.-Louis-en-l’Île; 33-1-43-54-97-15).
The house specialty, Parme à l’os (66 euros a kilogram, or $99 for about two and a quarter pounds, at $1.50 to the euro), is a sublime air-dried ham that’s aged for three years. Sliced tissue-paper thin, the pink meat melts on the tongue like cotton candy. You can round out an unparalleled assiette de charcuterie with slices cut from loaflike mounds of speck (46 euros a kilogram), classic French rosette dry sausage (36 euros a kilogram) and mellow chorizo from black pigs (36 euros a kilogram).